Dobra, sie wysililem i znalazlem na jednej z moich plytek ten oto opis
Zaczalem sobie ustawiac swoje parametry do MOMO Force ale jakos nie bylo czasu i checi zeby skonczyc
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Hi GPL'ers,
this will be no "try my settings" thread, but I think I have finally found an "easy" method to set up the core.ini values for the momowheel for everyone's taste, no matter if you like the forces strong or soft, or if you prefer a high or a low latency.
The point is, that you only have to change the steeringtorque-value to tune your FF, because it's a wrong "balance" between damping- and torque-force, that causes the car/wheel to "oscillate" and feel wrong, not the latencysetting. Setting a higher latency just gives sort of a stiffer feeling to the wheel, but the lower the latency, the better the "resolution" and quality of the forces beeing calculated.
To start and see how it works, set latency to 0.00, and set damping to anything between 0 and 15, lets say 5. The higher you set damping, the higher you will have to set the torque to get rid of unnatural "oscillation" and the forces feel right/the car feel "balanced", resulting in a stronger "overallforce".
To find the right torquesetting for the latency and damping you have choosen, just try to come closer with changes ±10, then ±5 and if you're near the optimal setting, try changes of ±1, because you can feel if you are only 1 (kg?) to high or to low...
Just start whith high torquevalues/low force, i.e. 350 for damping=5, (450
for damping=0) and go down step by step with torque until it feels perfect. You
soon will get the feeling how the car behaves if torque is a bit too low or too
high. You can even set torque between two values for finetuning (i.e. 322.3)
if 322 feels to high and 323 to low. (it's easier to finetune with a lower steeringratio like 10:1)
If it's perfect, you can easily feel when the back of the car starts to drift away in a turn and it should be easy to control poweroversteer. If you come out of a turn, your car just pulls straight, and if you let it oscillate a bit on a straight it should always be easy to keep control whithout the "oscillation" getting stronger. Even if you take your hands off the wheel in a long straight and go off throttle, the car should not start to oscillate at once. (It does when your torque is not right)
My testtrack is watkins glen, because you have a good right-left combination ("the esses") with the following straight and you can feel right from the start, if your FF is perfect or not. Anyway, drive at least two laps to get the tires warm for finetuning. I use steeringratio of 14:1 to 16:1, but you can go to 7:1 for finetuning and if the car gets drivable
, your there and FF is "balanced". And put some fuel in your tank, i fill about 40 liters for FF-tuning.
If you got it, you can do this for higher dampings if you want stronger forces. Try it for damping at 0, 5, 10, 15, 20.
Finally you can try to add latency (try 0, 0.005, 0.01, 0.02, 0.04 ...) you will see it's always possible to tune the torquesetting until forces are "balanced" and FF feels "right", I prefer to leave latency at 0.00, because GPL produces the most accurate forces then, but setting of the right torquevalue is the most sensitive then, I think. How strong you want the forces is basicaly a matter of taste but i recommend not to have torque stronger than about 280 whith the momo.
The "cleanest" force you get with damping=0 and lat=0, but as you have to set torque to a high value, try 425-385, the force will be very soft and probably to weak for most of you but anyway worth a try.
btw.You can put your resulting torque/dampingvalues in a coordinate system, where x is torque and y is damping. You will see that all these points are on a curve, so you can guess what's the resulting torque for the next higher dampingvalue you try. If you have your momos "curve", you can see all working D/T combinations graphicaly and can chose any you like later.
Important:
To get this to work, use these settings in windows and profiler.
Windows gamecontroller:
overallforce 100%
spring 0% or 100% (no difference, i use 100%)
damping 0% !!
centerspring unchecked and off 0%!!
-if you change any of these values, it will have effect on the "balance" you have set in core.ini!
Profiler (if you use it):
wheelaxis-sensitivity 50% (linear!!).
deadzone 0% !!
One strange thing at the end:
Sometimes it can happen (at least on my system) that the forces of the momo go a little crazy in GPL. Then the wheel suddenly starts to oscillate with the core.ini values that were perfect before, and the car becomes almost undrivable. Normally starting GPL new will solve this, but sometimes I could not get rid of it until I made a complete new install of the Logisoftware. (4.30 atm) I have no idea until now what is the reason for this. (I started to unplug the powersupply of the wheel for a while now if i dont drive and had no problems since then...)
The second strange thing is, that my Torque/Damping-curve that i was talking about before was different with my previous Wingmaninstallation, that's the reason why i don't want to give you my results (D/T combinations), better try to find your momo's own, they are probably not the same anyway
My system:
Asus A7N8X, XP 2400+, 512 MB,
WINXP Pro,
Audigy Player, Radeon 9700pro
phew
this was getting bigger than i wanted it to be, but with my poor english
it's hard to explain all this in an easy way.
I hope it helps to understand how the FF in GPL works and to find your own "best" settings. I have a momo for about 2 1/2 years, tried all kinds of guides but never was satisfied. Finally i think this is how the effects in GPL are supposed to be felt.
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2003-11-13, 20:44 szumi - kto ty jestes? ;)
no no szumi jak sie wdasz w poprzednika konsolowca wsrod nas to bedzie 
, az nie wlacze sobie jakiejs gierki kiedys przeznaczonej wprost dla niego (tak dla odpoczynku od GPL'a 
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